Zack’s Top 10 Looking Glass Climbs: Slabs

1) The Nose, 5.8, Trad, The Nose Area. 

The Nose is among the most famous multipitch rock climbs in the state, and for good reason. It is nearly 500 feet tall across four pitches of moderate slab climbing punctuated by Looking Glass’s signature eyebrows. The Nose features bolted belay stations on every pitch and makes for a welcome outing on all but the coldest days of the year. Gear is abundant throughout the climb, though care should be taken leaving the pitch two and three belays, as they are ledges. For more route information, read this blog written by PCS Lead Guide Anna Marie Alewine about The Nose!

Gear: Doubles .3-#1. Optional: Triples .4-.75.

     Brett styling on The Nose’s first pitch in autumn!

2) Sundial Crack, 5.8, Trad, The Nose Area

Sundial Crack is a classic, four pitch climb that ascends the face directly above the approach trail. It climbs signature eyebrows across a long traverse on pitch two before turning upwards through a 25 foot hand crack, its namesake. Gear is plentiful throughout the climb, though care should be taken to protect the first pitch, as the gear wanders horizontally. Sundial features bolted belays through the first two pitches before turning to gear anchors. It tops out near pitch four of the Nose, which is commonly used for descent along with the Peregrine anchors. 

Gear: Doubles .3-#3. Optional: Triples .4-.75.

Effie wrapping up the pitch two traverse with Southern fall on full display!

3) Lichen or Not, 5.5, Trad, The South Side

This 100 foot slab climb makes for a great warm up and introduction to the South Side of Looking Glass. It begins in a right leaning crack and transitions to eyebrows that lead to a bolted belay. Technically there is a long second pitch that tops out in the trees, though most parties simply climb the first pitch. Lichen or Not is usually wet through winter and spring and is best climbed in the summer or fall. It is well-protected and offers a fantastic view of Pisgah National Forest from its anchors. 

Gear: Doubles .3-#2. Optional: Triples .5 and .75. 

 David enjoying the view from atop the route!

4) Dinkus Dog, 5.10a/b, Trad, The South Side. 

Dinkus Dog climbs a steep face studded with eyebrows. It leaves from a large ledge that is accessed from a short, third class scramble up some broken terrain towards the north (left) end of the South side. Gear is great but  somewhat spaced throughout the climb, though the route makes for a safe outing given the steepness of the wall. Most parties break the route into two pitches by belaying in a large eyebrow about halfway up the wall (hanging belay with hand-size cams .75-#2). Some ambitious climbers link both pitches into one 60 meter mega-pitch and belay from the two bolt anchor atop pitch two. This route is best climbed on a dry winter day or early morning when friction is prime. Two 60 meter ropes, or a setup of equivalent length, are required to descend. 

Gear: Doubles .3-#2. Optional: Triples .4-.75. 

PCS Guide Alex Cobb leading pitch one with Anna Marie on belay.

Photo: Bryan Miller. 

 5) Good Intentions, 5.6, Trad, The South Side.

Good Intentions climbs steep eyebrows and featured rock up a steep slab. The crux arrives about halfway up the wall and features small feet and narrow eyebrows. Some parties break the climb into two pitches by belaying at a large eyebrow just past the crux on hand-size cams (.75s and #1s). There is a two bolt anchor on a large ledge climber’s right of the tree island up high. This anchor is shared with Left Up, a nearby route, and is commonly used to descend from both routes. Good Intentions is one of the first routes on the South Side to dry after rain. Hop on this one after sending Weather or Not, Lichen or Not, and Short Man’s Sorrow, as it is a step up in difficulty! 

Gear: Doubles .3-#2. Optional: .2, Triples .4-.75.

  Lina just before the crux crimps on Good Intentions with peak fall colors behind!

6) Short Man’s Sorrow, 5.5, The South Side. 

Short Man’s Sorrow is a classic, single pitch climb that features scooped holds uncharacteristic of the surrounding area. Protection is abundant throughout the climb. This climb is excellent for practicing gear placement or knocking out one of your first traditional climbs. Leaders should be ready to build a trad anchor either in one of the eyebrows (.5-#2) just before the large ledge (Stage Ledge) or atop Stage Ledge in one of the surrounding cracks (#1s and #2s). The route can be set up as a toprope by scrambling a low 5th class gully climber’s right of the route, which also serves as one of its descent options. Some climbers will also rappel from a large tree climber’s right of the gully to return to the ground. 

Gear: Doubles .3-#2. Optional: Triples .5 and .75.

Kyle making quick work of the perfect eyebrows on Short Man’s Sorrow!

 7) Weather or Not, 5.5, Trad, The South Side.

Weather or Not follows a small crack system which turns to eyebrows towards the top of the route. Gear is plentiful along the climb, though leaders should be ready to climb twenty feet of easy terrain off the ground before gaining protection. The climb finishes at a two bolt anchor with an amazing view of the surrounding landscape. This climb is often wet through winter and spring and is best climbed in the summer or fall. 

Gear: Doubles .3-#1.

Marie-Angela just past the crux on Weather or Not on a perfect summer afternoon! 

Photo: Courtenay Roche

8) The Legacy, 5.10d, Mixed, The South Side. FA: Karsten Delap. 

First climbed and equipped by PCS owner Karsten Delap, the Legacy is a test piece slab that requires precision and technique for successful passage. It leaves from Sentry Box Ledge, which is found on the leftward end of the South Side and accessed via a low fifth class crack pitch from the ground.  This climb follows thin crimps directly off the ledge through two bolts before turning into a trad climb. The difficulty arrives just after bolt two, where the wall steepens and holds grow further apart. This section is readily protected by cams in the .3-.5 range. After pulling over the bulge, the angle kicks down and becomes a fun, well-protected romp to the anchors. Leaders should consider anchoring the belayer while leaving the belay ledge. Best done in colder weather. 

Local beta: The beginning of Gemini Crack sits just right of the route and makes for a more welcome opening to gain the first bolt for those unfamiliar with the route and/or North Carolina slab climbing. 

Gear: Quickdraws, Doubles .3-.75.

Slabbing up into the crimp section on the face.

Photo: Karsten Delap

9) Twist of Fate, 5.7, Trad, Fate Osteen 

This route is worth the hike! Its first pitch climbs through some cool slashes before a cool move at the crux (great .5 cam!). There is a two bolt anchor halfway up the wall on a small ledge. Pitch two climbs through steepening terrain on great eyebrows before ending at another two bolt anchor just over the top of the headwall. It can be rappelled with one rope using the same anchor stations. This climb is readily protected and makes for a great multipitch outing for those breaking into the grade and/or North Carolina slab climbing! 

Gear: Doubles .3-#2. 

 Drew nearing the pitch two headwall of 

       Twist of Fate with Pisgah National 

           Forest on full display behind! 

  10) Wrench in my Pocket, 5.11a, Mixed, The Nose Area. FA: Karsten Delap.

Another Delap first ascent, Wrench in my Pocket is a newer slab route that follows a thinly featured, steepening wall. Though it features many bolts, it doesn’t climb like a sport climb, as there are significant runouts with big air potential. The climb takes a .5 cam between bolts two and three to tame the runout and is a sustained, tech-fest up to a heartbreaker crux just before the anchors. Bring your slab game, patience, and a cool head for this one! Best done in colder weather. 

Gear: Quickdraws, Single .5. 

 PCS Owner Karsten Delap inching up his route, crimp by crimp. 

     Photo: Bryan Miller

Zack’s Top 10 Looking Glass Climbs: Cracks

Part of what makes Looking Glass so special is its variety. Though most famous for slab routes like The Nose, the monolith has a host of cracks that will test beginners and crack aficionados alike. Here are my Top 10 Looking Glass Crack Climbs, all of which are well-documented in the Southern Pisgah Rock and Ice book and on Mountain Project!

Mid-crux on the traverse section of Invisible Airways.

Photo: Karsten Delap

1. The Seal, 5.10a, The North Side 

The Seal follows a beautiful, right-arching crack system and features techy, intricate climbing. It transitions between multiple crack sizes from fingers to hands throughout the climb. A testpiece for the area, this Seal boasts a reachy crux that is often surmounted very differently. Gear is abundant through every section of this climb apart from a common short and safe runout while pulling the crux, depending on how you do it! 

Gear: Doubles .3-#2. Optional: .2, nuts, additional cams .3-.5.

Chad Rambo pulling through the first roof section.

2. Creatures of Waste, 5.10c, The North Side 

One of the most striking lines around, this climb follows a rightward scoop that steepens as you climb. It features delicate movement through ramps and gets pumpier with each section. The crux features a bolt and big reaches to big holds. The exposure pulling out of the ramp and gazing up at the steepening wall is incredible! Gear is abundant throughout the climb, though care should be taken between the ramp and bolt, as the rock quality is suspect in places. The direct start climbs straight up off the ground through a roof and tough mantle, while the original start (less strenuous) begins at the base of the ramp 20 feet left and traverses rightward above the roof.

Gear: Doubles .3-#2, Single #3.

  Stopping to place gear just after the crux. Photo: Karsten Delap.

3. Invisible Airways, 5.10c, The North Side

This line starts on a vertical crack then turns to the right across a thin crimp traverse. It joins a beautiful left-facing corner that runs to the top. Both cruxes, the traverse and beginning of the corner are well-protected and safe. An area classic that sees many aid and free ascents. The direct start stays in the corner off the ground through one bolt and goes at 5.12a. 

Gear: Doubles .3-#2, single .2. Optional: extra .3-.5 cams.

Eying the traverse section on a cold winter day. Photo: Karsten Delap.

4. Second Coming, 5.7, The South Side

This route is a classic multipitch that ascends a right-facing corner. Gear is abundant through every section, and seeing where to place it straightforward due to high traffic. The crux ascends a thin hand crack through a steep bulge and protects well. Most parties complete this climb in 3-4 pitches. 

Local Beta: It is highly advisable to build an anchor in the alcove roughly 35 feet off the ground to offer a safer belay through the crux moves. A lead fall from the crack crux, if belayed from the ground, will likely result in some ankle or leg damage due to slack and rope stretch.

Descent: Three single rope rappels to descend, the first angling climber’s right to “The Legacy” anchors on the face.

Gear: Doubles .3-#2, Single #3. Optional: Extra .5 and .75, second #3.

   Brian slabbing up to the belay just after pulling the crux crack.

5. Gemini Crack, 5.8, The South Side

Gemini is a classic multipitch route that features low angle crack climbing with one steeper crux section. It leaves from Sentry Box Ledge, which is approached by climbing a short fifth-class crack. Every section protects well. Pitch one follows a beautiful right facing corner with plentiful hand and foot holds. Many parties stop to belay in an alcove just below the crux. The crux pulls through steep, double hand cracks 10 feet above the alcove. They’re a little flaring as they start but offer better jams and safer protection soon after. The angle turns back down after the crux and follows a fun and more mellow right facing corner to the top. There is an optional horizontal gear belay twenty feet after the crux that facilitates easy communication and a nice rest for the leader (midsize cams). Most parties complete this climb from Sentry Box Ledge in 2-3 pitches, though it is possible to do it in one long mega pitch.  

Descent: Two single rope rappels back to Sentry Box Ledge, the first angling climber’s left to “The Legacy” anchors on the face.

Gear: Doubles .3-#2. Optional: Extra .5 and .75.

 Brian enjoying the jams on the 5.6 pitch one corner.

6. The Womb, 5.11a, The North Side

The Womb is a classic multipitch outing that features both thuggy and delicate climbing. It follows right-trending finger and hand cracks that are readily broken into two pitches at a ledge up to its namesake crux chimney section, a unique alcove in the middle of the climb. This crux requires chimney technique to free, though it is often aided by stepping on the belay bolts. Past the chimney is a laser-cut, right-facing 5.10 dihedral that takes finger and midsize cams. I often stop to belay on a small pedestal (.4-.75s) below the top ledge so I can watch my follower climb the corner and take photos! This climb is well-protected, though care should be taken gaining the horizontals on pitch one. Most parties do this climb in 3-4 pitches. 

Local Beta: Leaders should place a small cam (.2-.3) in the small lip just after the crux. The rope can jam in that small slot should the follower fall pulling through the chimney. 

Descent: The descent bolts are 20 feet climber’s right at the top of the ledge. With one 70 meter rope, you can descend by first rappelling to the Nuclear anchors climber’s right then rappelling again. Two ropes are required to rappel directly to the ground from the top Womb anchors and from the Safari Jive anchors.

Gear: Doubles .3-#3. Optional: #4, extra .4-.75.

   Austin jamming through the pitch two traverse.

7. Rat’s Ass, 5.8+, The South Side

This climb is a classic multipitch that climbs finger and hand cracks. Though a step up from Gemini and Second Coming in difficulty, it protects well and is just as safe. Most parties climb a short approach pitch up a slab to a tree ledge just below the pitch one finger crack. From there, the climb takes an awesome right-facing corner up to a great ledge. This crux pitch features balancey climbing up the finger crack with good footholds along the way. It protects well with finger cams and nuts, especially offset nuts. The climb then follows a low angle hand crack through a steepening bulge before returning to slab before the top anchors. Some parties break this section into two pitches by belaying just after the bulge to maintain communication (good idea if it’s windy), opting for a short final pitch angling right to the anchors. This climb deserves traffic! 

Descent: Three single rope rappels to descend, the first angling climber’s right to “The Legacy” anchors on the face.

Gear: Doubles .3-#2, Single 3. Optional: .2, Extra .3-.5, nuts.

  Kris bringing Brian up through the money pitch one finger crack.

8. Dum Dee Dumb Dumb, 5.10c PG-13, The Nose Area

This climb is an awesome 5.9 hand crack protected by a tough flaring crack crux. It follows broken cracks up to bolt-protected crux moves that require power and crack technique. Past this section, the climb stays tricky before easing at a vertical hand crack to the top. Climbing directly through the bolt is 5.10c, while stepping right then traverses back to the crack goes at 5.10a. The gear past the bolt through the crux is great but can be difficult to place given the route’s pumpy nature. It’s possible to hit the ledge if you don’t place gear soon after the bolt, so be sure to protect yourself! A hard but safe climb that will test your endurance and technical skills! 

Local Beta: The opening slab moves directly under the route are unprotectable and pretty thin. There’s a small tree and ledge a few feet right of the immediate line that offers a friendlier entry up to the climb. 

Gear: .3-.75, Doubles #1-#3.

Jamming through the flaring crux on a hot summer afternoon toprope burn!

Photo: Courtenay Roche

9. T and B, 5.10a, The Sun Wall

T and B is a long multipitch route that follows cracks and grooves through the Sun Wall’s steep bulges. The second pitch follows an off-vertical hand crack, while the crux pitch pulls a steep section dubbed the “Michelin Man Bulge” on slopey holds. The position and movement on these pitches are incredible and feel super exposed! The crux pitch offers great gear to protect the leader and follower through its traverses. The route becomes all gear anchors after pitch one’s bolted anchors. The climb is majorly well-protected, though it has a few runouts through moderate terrain where falling could result in big falls and swings for both leader and follower. Care must be taken gaining the pitch two crack off the belay ledge, as the first piece is about eight feet up through a somewhat cryptic and demanding face sequence. A great route to go knock out for more experienced parties looking for harder climbing through amazing crack, eyebrow, and groove features.

Descent: Many parties do a long traverse to the right after the watergroove pitch and rappel the Sun Wall, though I prefer to top out the formation and rappel the Nose. Doing so makes for a bigger climb and also allows you to approach via the Sun Wall trail rather than the South Side, which is a much shorter hike. The traverse also does not offer much gear, so it’s far more enjoyable to keep going up. Parties topping out can expect another few pitches of low fifth class climbing after the groove pitch to the summit trail, trending climber’s left. 

Gear: Doubles .3-#3. Optional: Extra .5 and .75.

Plugging some gear before pulling over the crux bulge during a sunset lap!

Photo: Anna Marie Alewine

10. Unfinished Concerto, 5.9+, The South Side

Unfinished Concerto takes a steep hand crack up to a right-facing corner crux. The climb then follows a balancey corner on small holds up to the top. This climb leaves from a large ledge next to Fat Dog and Dinkus Dog and can be located by scrambling up a short 4th class section. It is well-protected and a great climb for trad leaders breaking into the 5.10 grade. Most parties just do the first pitch of this climb to bolted anchors. The climb does continue through a 5.5 crack system for 200 feet to the top, where parties must then traverse hard right across low angle slab to reach the top anchors for Rat’s Ass/Gemini/First Return/The Legacy to descend.

Descent: From the top anchors after the long traverse, three single rope rappels angling climber’s right, the first to “The Legacy” anchors on the face.

Gear: Doubles .3-#1, Single #2. Optional: Extra .5 and .75.

   Jason making quick work of the lower crack section as he and Trevor train for their AMGA Rock Guide Course.

Gear Guide: Ropes

PCS guides swear by Bluewater Ropes. I’ve now climbed exclusively on them for 1.5 years and am extremely happy with their performance. Whether I’m guiding, training, or personal climbing, I grab a Bluewater rope to get the job done. Here are my top four Bluewater ropes for climbing!

Lead Guide Anna Marie belaying with the 9.1mm Icon.

Photo: Karsten Delap 

9.1mm Icon 

The 9.1 Icon is my go-to rope for multipitch climbing. At 55 grams per meter, it is extremely durable for its thickness. It wears quite well and feeds smoothly far into its lifespan. This rope is a worthy companion when weight and speed matter.

James leading in Cashiers on the Bluewater 9.1mm Icon.

9.7mm Lightning Pro 

The 9.7 Lightning Pro is my workhorse single pitch rope. It is the thickest rope I use and makes for a great sport or hard trad climbing rope where falling is frequent. This rope is a great pick for toprope climbing because toproping significantly wears down ropes, so a thicker one will last longer. At 61 g/m, this rope is manageable to hike to the crag. The Lightning Pro is confidence inspiring to tie into when pushing grades or working routes.

Hillary rappelling on the 9.7 Lightning Pro!

9.2mm Xenon 

I primarily bring the 9.2 Xenon for multipitch climbing. At 56 g/m, it’s not much heavier than the Icon but offers increased durability. This extra diameter means the rope will last a bit longer, especially if used for any toprope climbing. It is supple and provides versatility for different types of climbing.

 Louis and Suze on the 9.2 Xenon atop pitch one of The Nose, Looking Glass Rock.

8.8mm Argon 

I grab the 8.8mm Argon for big days when every ounce counts. At 52 g/m, the Argon is the lightest and thinnest rope Bluewater sells, and it comes with an “expert’s only” notice for good reason. Its reduced diameter translates to less cut resistance, so users must avoid raking the rope over edges. It is very supple and feeds quite easily.

Beginning the pitch four traverse with the 8.8mm Argon on Save The Shrimp, Whiteside Mountain.

Photo: Anna Marie Alewine

Lengths and Rope Types

I typically purchase double-dry, bi-pattern, 70 meter ropes. Each of these options increases the overall rope price, but you get what you pay for. Here’s why:

Dry Treatment

Dry-treated ropes include a special coating that protects the rope from moisture. These ropes fare better in wetter environments, such as while alpine or ice climbing. I find dry-treated ropes work well in Pisgah because it rains so often. I buy dry to ensure my ropes last as long as possible.

 Rappelling at Rumbling Bald on my dry-treated 9.1mm Icon.

Photo: Courtenay Roche

Bi-pattern

Bi-pattern ropes change color and/or pattern at the halfway point, or “middle-mark.” The different colors help immensely in finding the middle mark, which is necessary to set up a rappel or toprope.

Rejus rappelling on a bi-pattern 9.2 Xenon at Big Rock, SC.

70 Meter

70 meter ropes are about 230 feet long. They allow climbers to lower or rappel from routes up to about 115 feet (plus a bit with rope stretch). This extra length compared to a 60 meter rope (roughly 200 feet long) can be the difference in getting down to safety, especially on longer rappels, impromptu lowers, or rescues. In practice, it takes about five extra seconds to pull a 70m rope vs. a 60m rope up to or down from an anchor, so the extra time is negligible.

Avah rappelling the South Side of Looking Glass on a 70 meter 9.1mm Icon.

Red Rock Canyon: Top 10 Items to Bring Rock Climbing

Red Rock Canyon is a world-class climbing destination just outside of Las Vegas, Nevada. It features long routes, grippy sandstone, and big exposure in a remote, beautiful setting. Though the climbing is fantastic, its desert terrain is demanding and requires preparation. Below you can find ten items that I bring to climb in the national park. Whether they’re to help you beat the heat, stay on route, or be prepared for an emergency, these tools will help ensure your success out in the canyons.

Pine Creek Canyon at first light, the start to many great days in the canyons!

Sun Hoodie

The desert sun can be brutal, especially on longer approaches into the canyons. It may seem counterintuitive to want a hood and long sleeves, but these features work wonders to keep you cool. Their lightweight fabric provides a nice reprieve from the beating sun. On shadier routes, I’ll often wear a sun hoodie on the approach, leave it at the base of the climb on a tree to dry, then put it back on to walk out of the canyon. I really like the Rab Force Hoodie because it’s lightweight, dries quickly, and protects well from the sun.

IFMGA Guide Joe Thompson rocking a Rab Sun Hoodie on a winter AMGA Rock Guide Course.

Hard-Plastic Water Bottles

Staying hydrated in the desert is key, especially if you’re from a wetter area like Western North Carolina. The arid climate saps the moisture from your body, even in the shade. Drinking water throughout the day is essential, especially if you are climbing multiple days in a row. While soft rubber flasks like Camelbacks and Hydrapacks are great, they are easily puncturable by the plethora of cacti and other pokey things in the desert. Many climbers have lost their entire water supply for the day this way, so hard bottles like Nalgenes fare much better in Red Rocks.

AMGA Assistant Rock Guide Chase Colley’s improvised hard plastic water bottle, a must-have in the harsh desert!

WAG Bags

Much of Red Rock Canyon is composed of a fragile ecosystem. Cryptobiotic soil is especially susceptible to human traffic and can be damaged by even the lightest of treading off trail. Wandering off trail and digging a big hole for human waste is out of the question because the desert environment simply can’t recover from that level of destruction. Instead, climbers and all park visitors are heavily encouraged to carry WAG bags, which are portable, packable human waste receptacles. They provide a lightweight, leave-no-trace option for bathroom usage in the field and are reasonable to pack out, especially when combined with a ziplock bag.

WAG Bag dispenser in Black Velvet Canyon, a very popular multipitch climbing destination within the park. Photo: S. Massey

Garmin In-Reach/SAT Device

Since lots of climbs are far into the canyons, they are often out of cell range. Many of these adventure trad climbs have intricate descents with tricky route-finding. Since climbers cannot count on cell coverage, they can greatly benefit from carrying a second communication device that uses satellite technology. These devices can connect and relay messages where cell phones fall short, and they prove invaluable every year in coordinating rescues when accidents happen. My favorite device is the Garmin In-Reach Mini. I appreciate its lightweight design, simple interface, and ability to send and receive messages. You can also pair it to your phone and send longer messages through the device, even if you don’t have cell service!

Garmin InReach Mini, an essential emergency communication device for every adventure.

Passive Protection — Nuts

Nuts are not found on many climbers’ racks these days, though they are invaluable in Red Rocks. Many classic climbs here are highly featured, and nuts fit perfectly between their flaring cracks and plated jugs. A set of nuts essentially doubles your protection options, so you can sew up pitches with protection and still have options for building an anchor. Offset nuts work particularly well in the little flares and constrictions here, and I’m fond of the Wild Country Superlight Rock Set (sizes 1-6). These nuts are tapered like offsets and work well in smaller flares. WC just issued a voluntary recall on any sets made before 2023 for maritime degradation issues, so they may be slightly harder to find in early 2023. On longer climbs, I often bring a second set of bigger nuts (Wild Country Superlight Offset Rock Set, sizes 5-10.)

Climbing Invisible Airwaves with a set of Wild Country Superlight Offset Nuts. Photo: Karsten Delap

Electrolytes 

In addition to staying hydrated, climbers in Red Rocks need to consistently replenish their salt levels. Adding a supplement to your water bottles helps do so. I have had good experiences with Skratch, which is basically tasteless and packs plenty of salt. On most long days in the park, I’ll drink 2-3 liters of Skratch and eat a few packs of Extreme Jelly Belly Sport Beans. These beans deliver sugar, caffeine, and electrolytes, and I love that they’re light and easy to eat quickly.

Skratch labs Lemon Lime Drink Mix, a perfect way to stay healthy in the desert!  Photo: SkratchLabs.com

Jelly Belly Extreme Sport Beans in their best flavor –watermelon! Photo: JellyBelly.com

Route and Area Photos 

Red Rocks is a maze of twisting trails and canyons, and many of the formations and areas look similar. To prepare for each day, I take pictures of the Red Rocks Guidebook and screenshot Mountain Project and internet photos, including approach and descent options. These photos serve as a digital guidebook in the field that makes a great reference. I’ll often change my phone’s lock screen to a topographic map or picture of the route so I can quickly glance at my phone to see where to go. Photos taken from the ground are also particularly useful to identify where routes begin. Many classic climbs have GPS tracks that can be downloaded online, and this resource helps immensely in navigating complicated approaches and descents.

 A topo for a crag in Calico Basin, illustrating five different climbing routes. Photo: Red Rocks Guide Book     

 An online photo taken from the base of the same crag, submitted by a user on Mountain Project. Photo: Repka

60 Meter Rope 

A 60 meter rope is often the best rope choice for multipitch routes in Red Rocks. With this length, you can climb up to 200 foot pitches and make 100 foot rappels. Although 70 meter ropes facilitate slightly longer pitches and rappels, they are heavier and take longer to pull during transitions. Many descents in Red Rocks are walk-offs or only feature short rappels, so a 60 meter rope is sufficient for the down and efficient on the up. My personal favorite rope for Red Rocks is the Bluewater 9.1mm Icon 60 meter rope. It is light and wears well in the desert environment.

   Belaying the second on Community Pillar with a 60m Bluewater Icon 9.1mm (pink). Photo: Farmer

First Aid Kit 

A small first aid kit is a prudent choice to bring into Red Rocks for emergency preparation. Many routes are long and take about an hour to reach by foot, so any rescue operation apart from a helicopter will take some time. Having medical materials can make the difference in conducting a self-rescue and escaping a major injury. I bring the Adventure Medical Kit Ultralight/Watertight .7 Medical Kit, supplemented by other key items like a tourniquet and headlamp. It’s light and small enough to climb with and features a good array of supplies and drugs for response.

Ultralight/Watertight Medical Kit .7, encased in a plastic bag with a tourniquet for increased water resistance.

Portable Cell Phone Charger 

A functional cell phone on a climb is key for route information, emergency communication, and of course, photos! Modern cell batteries last pretty long but can still die towards the end of the day, especially in colder weather that drains them faster. A small, portable charger offers another 1-2 charges. This extra juice can be invaluable on a long descent, extended rescue situation, or to not miss capturing the photo of the day! I especially like the Goal Zero line and find the Flip 24 to be a great balance between weight and charging power.

The Goal Zero Flip 24, perfect for keeping your phone powered up throughout the day!

Rope Inspection and Longevity

Peer Review by Karsten Delap and Anna Marie Alewine

Anna Marie inspects a rope before getting ready to climb. Photo: Karsten Delap

Your rope is essentially your best friend as a climber. It’s your main and often only connection to the mountain, and your life literally hangs on it. As a result, it almost goes without saying that ropes must be kept in tip-top condition. Here are some great ways to assess your rope’s condition to make sure you’re looking after your lifeline.

Ropes on ropes! Photo: Karsten Delap

Inspect your rope often. It can only take one fall on a damaged rope to spell catastrophe. Luckily, there are many situations that naturally facilitate climbers to assess their rope’s condition. Each time a belayer flakes a rope for an upcoming lead, they pass it through their hands. Not only does doing so prevent knots from being left in the lead line (which can compromise a safe belay), it also presents an opportunity to feel the outside of the rope, called the sheath, for any abrasions or abnormalities. 

While feeling the sheath, this person can also stop to feel the inner portion of the rope, known as the core, in any section where the sheath is damaged. Core damage can result from taking a huge lead fall, excessive use, or falling on the same spot in the rope many times. When the core is damaged, it flattens and thus loses its ability to return the rope to its normal shape after being stretched. The rope’s dynamic capability keeps climbers safe and is why dynamic lines are now ubiquitous in recreational climbing. Without rope stretch, peak impact force would be astronomical and many, if not all falls would be back-breaking, and ropes could actually break (which used to happen before kernmantle ropes were invented in the 20th century!). 

Core damage can be difficult to accurately determine, so climbers rely on a few tricks to assess it. A common way to determine whether a rope has been damaged is by finding a place where it feels soft, as in easier to squeeze. At this spot, make a small bite with this portion of rope forming the curve in the bite. Pinch the sides of the bite together, and peer through it. If there is air between the two strands that form the bite, the core is not damaged. If the sides can touch, the core is damaged. Note that this damage can result from regular wear and tear; for instance, older or heavily used ropes may not pass this test at the end of their usability). Any rope that fails this pinch test cannot safely protect a climber and must be retired. 

Possible Core Damage. Photo: Karsten Delap

At its worst, rope damage can cause a “core shot” when the sheath has been completely torn and core strands are visible. This rope is no longer safe to use and must be immediately retired. On the bright side, it’s relatively easy to tell that the rope has been seriously damaged. This portion of the rope must be isolated (or cut off, if it’s near an end) if the rope must continue to be used, such as to retreat.

Unlikely to have core damage. Photo: Karsten Delap

Ropes should be inspected before and after each use. As the rope is coiled, it passes through the person’s hands and can be assessed. In a multi-pitch setting, the belayer can check the rope as they pull it up to put their follower (or “second”) on belay. With proper care and frequent inspection, climbers can ensure that their rope is in working condition every time someone leaves the ground or anchor. 

“Core Shot” or sheath damage. Photo: Karsten Delap

As a general rule, retiring ropes for most climbers will happen before 5 years of use and many times much earlier. If you are ever unsure of your rope’s integrity, ask a professional or better yet, just get a new one! 

Rappelling

Peer Review by Karsten Delap and Anna Marie Alewine

Michael rappelling on a sunny day at Big Rock, SC!

At some point in your climbing adventures, you will need to rappel. This moment could come at the top of a long climb or an approach to a climb (many crags require climbers to rappel in and climb out, or when there is no “walk-off,” meaning a trail to get down). Rappelling is one of the more dangerous activities within climbing. When we climb up, we use the rope as a back-up in case we fall. Our primary protection is our climbing movement. When we rappel, we lose this protection and lean entirely on the system to support our weight and, in turn, our safety. We thread the rope through the anchor until each side is equal in length, then we descend by weighting both strands at once. The rope remains stationary at the anchor, and we pull one side to get it down once we are on the ground or next anchor station and “off rappel”, meaning on the ground or attached (“tethered”) to our next anchor. Rappelling is similar to lowering, but it has some nuances that are important to know and practice before using it in a live situation. Here are a few key points to hit each time you rappel.

Extended rappel and friction hitch backup. Photo: Karsten Delap.

1. Close the System

To “close” the system, knots must be tied in each free strand of rope so that a rappeler cannot rappel off either end of the rope. If either strand passes through the rappel device, the rappel is compromised. Before tossing the ropes down the cliff to rappel, tie a double overhand, or a “stopper” knot, in each strand with at least 12 inches of tail.

Kevin rappelling with a stopper knot at each rope end.

2. Backup the rappel

Without a proper backup, if the rappeler loses control of the break strands, they compromise the rappel. These situations could include being hit by rockfall, getting stung by insects, passing out or having a medical emergency, forgetting there is no backup and letting go of the break strands, or a number of other unforeseen circumstances. For these reasons, best practice is to use a friction hitch backup, or “third hand,” to provide an added degree of safety for the rappeler. The friction hitch slides freely and grips the rope when not being tended by the rappeler, so it protects the climber in the event they let go of the break strands. Friction hitches are created using “prusiks,” which are typically made from accessory cord. PCS guides prefer 5mm cord cut to 3 feet 7 inches and tied with a double fisherman's knot!

Sam rappelling The Legacy with a friction hitch backup.

3. Middle-mark the rope

Many modern ropes come with a “middle-mark,” usually one or two black stripes in the middle of the rope to signify its location. This mark is useful for rappelling because it ensures there is an equal amount of rope in each strand. The rappeler will not be able to get down unless both strands reach the ground or next anchor station, which may not happen if the strands are unequal. Best practice is to find the middle mark while setting up a rappel and ensure it is directly at the anchor before starting to rappel. Even with the middle mark in the proper location, it is still possible to come up short of the ground or next anchors if the rope is too short, which illustrates the importance of closing the system with stopper knots so that you can’t fall the remaining distance.

Bluewater Icon 9.1mm rope, threaded through the anchor at the middle mark. Photo: Karsten Delap

Many middle marks on ropes significantly fade with age and usage. I suggest purchasing a bi-pattern rope, like the Icon 9.1 from Bluewater. Bi-pattern ropes greatly facilitate finding the middle of the rope quickly and accurately. It is much easier to see rather than a simple black mark, especially while quickly feeding rope through an anchor.

As mentioned, rappelling is one of the more dangerous aspects of climbing because it requires fully relying on your system. Seek professional instruction to learn the ins and outs of descending from height, and refer back to this article for a refresher. See you out there!

My Top 3 Climbing Backpacks

Starting up Lotta Balls with a Deuter Guide Lite 30+ in Red Rock Canyon last winter.

Photo: Karsten Delap.

Choosing the right backpack can make a big difference in your climbing day. I prefer the Deuter line for my adventures in the mountains. These are my top three packs for single and multipitch climbing.

1. Deuter Guide Lite 30+ 

My go-to pack is the Deuter Guide Lite 30+, pictured above. Its light weight combined with its large storage space makes it the perfect bag for any type of climbing. You can load it up for a full day of cragging or just bring along a few items on a multipitch route. The top compartment and waist belt are easily removable to strip down additional weight and size. The pack has padded shoulder straps that snug down comfortably. Its thin profile keeps it on your back and off your sides. This narrow style is a mainstay of many packs in the Deuter climbing line and makes climbing movement feel unrestricted. 

Placing gear on Lotta Balls wearing the Deuter Guide Lite 30+

Photo: Karsten Delap

2. Deuter Guide Lite 24

The Deuter Guide Lite 24 is a smaller version of the 30+ that keeps many of key components. It features a similar thin frame and padded shoulder straps. The upper compartment is replaced by a tuckable flap to store a helmet or other gear above the main cavity. This pack’s low weight and compact size makes it a worthy companion on long multipitch routes, where bringing essentials and additional gear is a must. I reach for the 24 when I travel to climb big routes where I’ll be wearing a pack all day and need space for food, water, jackets, and approach shoes. 

Leading Angel’s Crest in Squamish, BC this summer with a Guide Lite 24. This climb is a must-do for the grade!

Photo: Brian Shannon.

3. Deuter Speedlite 13

The Deuter Speedlite 13 is a hiking backpack that functions well as a summit pack. I’ll often roll it up and stuff it into a bigger pack (the 24 or the 30) and wear it on route. Its diminutive size and weight keep you moving fast while giving you space to bring along a few small items, such as a first aid kit, snacks, water, and a jacket. I pack the 13 when I’m just climbing a few pitches and will return to my larger bag at the base, or when I need to go super-light to complete a big route in a day.

Topping out Guaranteed Rugged 5.10d in Marble Canyon, BC with a Deuter Speedlite 13.

Photo: Brian Shannon

The Blue Ridge Rampage

I worried I wouldn’t stick the move. I chalked up once, twice… seven times. I’d climbed through this water groove half a dozen times before, but today didn’t feel great, as I was sweating hard from running and climbing more than twenty pitches that day. By now, the temperature was over 70 degrees, and the holds and my hands felt slippery –probably too slippery for the next few moves…

Packing before the big day!

Preface

The Blue Ridge Rampage is a link-up climb of the four tallest walls in Western North Carolina. It consists of Looking Glass Rock in Brevard and three walls in Cashiers, two of which are Whiteside Mountain and Laurel Knob. 

After climbing at these four locations many times this summer, I wondered if it would be possible to link them all in a day. My original goal was to climb all four walls free from first to last light. Doing so in that timeframe seemed like a good challenge, as I wasn’t super keen on climbing any of the routes in the dark since they all feature relatively difficult climbing. 

After shopping around for partners, I recruited Kevin Carey. Kevin is a career military vet who has served all over the world. He’s known for his tenacity and commitment. Kevin’s moving to town next year, and he and I had climbed a handful of big routes this summer together, including two of the routes featured on this project. 

I had been training almost every day this year, mostly for AMGA courses and exams. After climbing in Red Rocks on three trips and also in Squamish, I wanted to see how far I could go and still climb at a high level. I planned to lead all 32 pitches. I wasn’t sure if this link-up had ever been done given the lack of available information, so I didn’t know how long it would take. As a last-second decision over burritos from Ecusta Brewing, Kevin and I decided we needed more time, so we planned to climb T & B in the dark by headlamp.

The Day: October 24th, 2022 

We set out at 5am, arriving at the base of T & B, an 8 pitch 5.10a trad route, in 13 minutes. I racked up and tiptoed across the P1 traverse. It felt a little different in the dark! 

Zack on P1 stepping into the dark void below the Sun Wall bulges.

We swam up the incredible hand crack below the crux, where I threw my heel up and went for the move, and sent! I was stoked because I’d always found this crux move particularly tricky to get right!

  Reaching the crux of “T & B,” the Michelin Man bulge!

We simul-climbed from the top of the water groove pitch to the tourist trail on the summit. We topped out Looking Glass from the base in 1h 34m, ran to the nose rappels, and were back on the road just before 8am.

Sunrise from the top of Looking Glass. Who’s got it better?

At Whiteside Mountain, we left the car a bit after 9am, running up and over the mountain to gain the base of the Original Route, a ten-pitch 5.11a trad route. I set off on the scary P1 slab, placing the one available piece of gear about halfway to the anchor. Got to see it through!

Zack slabbing up P1, a full-value, mostly free solo to start the route!

At the top, I slung a tree, brought up Kevin, and was off on the first of the route’s signature traverses, where you cut way left before turning back up the face!

Zack on the P2 start, a wild traverse across a ledge before some exposed flake moves!

We continued onwards, pulling through both cruxes and topping out to a crowd of hikers. I wrapped the fence and brought Kevin up, and we hit the top from the base at 2h 22m.

Zack belaying Kevin up the last pitch of the OR!

Kevin and Zack just after topping out on the hiker trail!

We ran down the mountain, arriving back at the car in 2h 45m. Halfway done, the fatigue started to creep in, but we were stoked!

Next, we drove through Cashiers to climb a lesser-known, Grade III 5.11c route near Highlands. After lots of chalk and time staring at the holds, I pulled through the water groove crux, Kevin followed, and we made our way to the top. We left the car just after 1pm and topped out right before 3pm. Seven rappels later, we grabbed our stuff and dashed to the car.

An anchor midway up the third wall when Zack forgot to grab a sling. Light and fast!

Reaching leg four of the day, we pulled into Lonesome Valley and met Jonathan Hyde, who cooks for the restaurant Canyon Kitchen. From here we all drove over to the base of Laurel Knob and started climbing at 4:50pm.

Zack adjusting the ropes halfway up Laurel. Green machine!

The crux Pitch 6 water groove on Seconds. Super cool climbing!

Kevin, Jonathan and I topped out Seconds at 7:30pm just after sunset. What a day!

    Sunset over Cashiers, taken from Seconds.

  Kevin and Zack on top of Laurel Knob, stoked!

After enjoying the summit, we rapped down and hoofed it back to the car, arriving at 8:56pm, roughly 15.5 hours after leaving the Nose area at 5:27am.

The trio celebrates over some bubbly in downtown Cashiers! L: Zack Mintz, Middle: Jonathan Hyde, R: Kevin Carey.

After Action Report

I led and sent all 32 pitches free. I almost blew it on the 10c OR lieback crux at Whiteside but managed to eke it out to the jug!

Kevin followed every pitch cleanly. He sent 31/32 pitches, including a proud top rope onsight of the OR’s 5.11 crux. He slipped just once through the day on Pitch 29, a techy foot traverse move on pitch 2 of Seconds. His effort in supporting our team through managing logistics and pushing the pace was huge.

We are stoked to have completed this climb and feel indebted to each route’s first ascensionists for their vision and efforts in equipping the lines. We would also like to thank Karsten Delap and Anna Marie Alewine of Pisgah Climbing School for their continued mentorship in efficient rock climbing, as completing this project would not have been otherwise possible. 

We hope more climbers will try this link-up, as it made for one of the best climbing days we’ve ever had in Pisgah. Climbers interested in repeating the link-up or seeking more information about the line can get in touch with me at zack@pisgahclimbingschool.com 

Time Log

  Time check atop T & B, from the car.

Routes

• T & B (5.10a, Grade III) base to top: 1h 34m. Car to car: 2h 29m

• The Original Route (5.11a, R, Grade III) base to top: 2h 22m. Car to car: 2h 45m

• BR (5.11c, PG-13, Grade III) base to top: 1h 10m. Car to car: 2h 56m 

• Seconds (5.9+, Grade III) base to top: 2h 39m. Car to car: 4h 16m

Statistics: 

Climbing

• Grade V, 32 Pitches, 3600,’ 5.11c

Driving

• 2 hours

Running

• Approximately 8 miles

• T & B: 1.6 miles

• Original Route: 2.5 miles

• BR: 3 miles

• Seconds: .6 miles

Chronology: 

• Looking Glass Rock, T & B

• 5:00am: Left house

• 5:23am arrived at The Nose parking lot 

• 5:27am: Stepped off on the approach 

• 5:50am: Arrived at the base 

• 7:24am: Topped out 

• 7:56am: Returned to car

• Whiteside Mountain, Original Route

• 9:11am: arrived at Whiteside parking lot

• 9:18am: Stepped off on the approach

• 9:46am: Arrived at the base

• 9:54am: Began climbing 

• 12:16pm: Topped out 

• 12:31pm: Returned to the car

• BR

• 1:00pm: Arrived at parking area

• 1:42pm: Arrived at the base

• 1:48pm: Began climbing

• 2:58pm: Topped out

• 4:01pm: Returned to the car

• Laurel Knob, Seconds 

• 4:40pm: Arrived at parking area

• 4:51pm: Began approach

• 7:30pm: Topped out

• 8:56pm: Returned to car