Zack’s Top 10 Looking Glass Climbs: Slabs

1) The Nose, 5.8, Trad, The Nose Area. 

The Nose is among the most famous multipitch rock climbs in the state, and for good reason. It is nearly 500 feet tall across four pitches of moderate slab climbing punctuated by Looking Glass’s signature eyebrows. The Nose features bolted belay stations on every pitch and makes for a welcome outing on all but the coldest days of the year. Gear is abundant throughout the climb, though care should be taken leaving the pitch two and three belays, as they are ledges. For more route information, read this blog written by PCS Lead Guide Anna Marie Alewine about The Nose!

Gear: Doubles .3-#1. Optional: Triples .4-.75.

     Brett styling on The Nose’s first pitch in autumn!

2) Sundial Crack, 5.8, Trad, The Nose Area

Sundial Crack is a classic, four pitch climb that ascends the face directly above the approach trail. It climbs signature eyebrows across a long traverse on pitch two before turning upwards through a 25 foot hand crack, its namesake. Gear is plentiful throughout the climb, though care should be taken to protect the first pitch, as the gear wanders horizontally. Sundial features bolted belays through the first two pitches before turning to gear anchors. It tops out near pitch four of the Nose, which is commonly used for descent along with the Peregrine anchors. 

Gear: Doubles .3-#3. Optional: Triples .4-.75.

Effie wrapping up the pitch two traverse with Southern fall on full display!

3) Lichen or Not, 5.5, Trad, The South Side

This 100 foot slab climb makes for a great warm up and introduction to the South Side of Looking Glass. It begins in a right leaning crack and transitions to eyebrows that lead to a bolted belay. Technically there is a long second pitch that tops out in the trees, though most parties simply climb the first pitch. Lichen or Not is usually wet through winter and spring and is best climbed in the summer or fall. It is well-protected and offers a fantastic view of Pisgah National Forest from its anchors. 

Gear: Doubles .3-#2. Optional: Triples .5 and .75. 

 David enjoying the view from atop the route!

4) Dinkus Dog, 5.10a/b, Trad, The South Side. 

Dinkus Dog climbs a steep face studded with eyebrows. It leaves from a large ledge that is accessed from a short, third class scramble up some broken terrain towards the north (left) end of the South side. Gear is great but  somewhat spaced throughout the climb, though the route makes for a safe outing given the steepness of the wall. Most parties break the route into two pitches by belaying in a large eyebrow about halfway up the wall (hanging belay with hand-size cams .75-#2). Some ambitious climbers link both pitches into one 60 meter mega-pitch and belay from the two bolt anchor atop pitch two. This route is best climbed on a dry winter day or early morning when friction is prime. Two 60 meter ropes, or a setup of equivalent length, are required to descend. 

Gear: Doubles .3-#2. Optional: Triples .4-.75. 

PCS Guide Alex Cobb leading pitch one with Anna Marie on belay.

Photo: Bryan Miller. 

 5) Good Intentions, 5.6, Trad, The South Side.

Good Intentions climbs steep eyebrows and featured rock up a steep slab. The crux arrives about halfway up the wall and features small feet and narrow eyebrows. Some parties break the climb into two pitches by belaying at a large eyebrow just past the crux on hand-size cams (.75s and #1s). There is a two bolt anchor on a large ledge climber’s right of the tree island up high. This anchor is shared with Left Up, a nearby route, and is commonly used to descend from both routes. Good Intentions is one of the first routes on the South Side to dry after rain. Hop on this one after sending Weather or Not, Lichen or Not, and Short Man’s Sorrow, as it is a step up in difficulty! 

Gear: Doubles .3-#2. Optional: .2, Triples .4-.75.

  Lina just before the crux crimps on Good Intentions with peak fall colors behind!

6) Short Man’s Sorrow, 5.5, The South Side. 

Short Man’s Sorrow is a classic, single pitch climb that features scooped holds uncharacteristic of the surrounding area. Protection is abundant throughout the climb. This climb is excellent for practicing gear placement or knocking out one of your first traditional climbs. Leaders should be ready to build a trad anchor either in one of the eyebrows (.5-#2) just before the large ledge (Stage Ledge) or atop Stage Ledge in one of the surrounding cracks (#1s and #2s). The route can be set up as a toprope by scrambling a low 5th class gully climber’s right of the route, which also serves as one of its descent options. Some climbers will also rappel from a large tree climber’s right of the gully to return to the ground. 

Gear: Doubles .3-#2. Optional: Triples .5 and .75.

Kyle making quick work of the perfect eyebrows on Short Man’s Sorrow!

 7) Weather or Not, 5.5, Trad, The South Side.

Weather or Not follows a small crack system which turns to eyebrows towards the top of the route. Gear is plentiful along the climb, though leaders should be ready to climb twenty feet of easy terrain off the ground before gaining protection. The climb finishes at a two bolt anchor with an amazing view of the surrounding landscape. This climb is often wet through winter and spring and is best climbed in the summer or fall. 

Gear: Doubles .3-#1.

Marie-Angela just past the crux on Weather or Not on a perfect summer afternoon! 

Photo: Courtenay Roche

8) The Legacy, 5.10d, Mixed, The South Side. FA: Karsten Delap. 

First climbed and equipped by PCS owner Karsten Delap, the Legacy is a test piece slab that requires precision and technique for successful passage. It leaves from Sentry Box Ledge, which is found on the leftward end of the South Side and accessed via a low fifth class crack pitch from the ground.  This climb follows thin crimps directly off the ledge through two bolts before turning into a trad climb. The difficulty arrives just after bolt two, where the wall steepens and holds grow further apart. This section is readily protected by cams in the .3-.5 range. After pulling over the bulge, the angle kicks down and becomes a fun, well-protected romp to the anchors. Leaders should consider anchoring the belayer while leaving the belay ledge. Best done in colder weather. 

Local beta: The beginning of Gemini Crack sits just right of the route and makes for a more welcome opening to gain the first bolt for those unfamiliar with the route and/or North Carolina slab climbing. 

Gear: Quickdraws, Doubles .3-.75.

Slabbing up into the crimp section on the face.

Photo: Karsten Delap

9) Twist of Fate, 5.7, Trad, Fate Osteen 

This route is worth the hike! Its first pitch climbs through some cool slashes before a cool move at the crux (great .5 cam!). There is a two bolt anchor halfway up the wall on a small ledge. Pitch two climbs through steepening terrain on great eyebrows before ending at another two bolt anchor just over the top of the headwall. It can be rappelled with one rope using the same anchor stations. This climb is readily protected and makes for a great multipitch outing for those breaking into the grade and/or North Carolina slab climbing! 

Gear: Doubles .3-#2. 

 Drew nearing the pitch two headwall of 

       Twist of Fate with Pisgah National 

           Forest on full display behind! 

  10) Wrench in my Pocket, 5.11a, Mixed, The Nose Area. FA: Karsten Delap.

Another Delap first ascent, Wrench in my Pocket is a newer slab route that follows a thinly featured, steepening wall. Though it features many bolts, it doesn’t climb like a sport climb, as there are significant runouts with big air potential. The climb takes a .5 cam between bolts two and three to tame the runout and is a sustained, tech-fest up to a heartbreaker crux just before the anchors. Bring your slab game, patience, and a cool head for this one! Best done in colder weather. 

Gear: Quickdraws, Single .5. 

 PCS Owner Karsten Delap inching up his route, crimp by crimp. 

     Photo: Bryan Miller