Rappelling
Peer Review by Karsten Delap and Anna Marie Alewine
Michael rappelling on a sunny day at Big Rock, SC!
At some point in your climbing adventures, you will need to rappel. This moment could come at the top of a long climb or an approach to a climb (many crags require climbers to rappel in and climb out, or when there is no “walk-off,” meaning a trail to get down). Rappelling is one of the more dangerous activities within climbing. When we climb up, we use the rope as a back-up in case we fall. Our primary protection is our climbing movement. When we rappel, we lose this protection and lean entirely on the system to support our weight and, in turn, our safety. We thread the rope through the anchor until each side is equal in length, then we descend by weighting both strands at once. The rope remains stationary at the anchor, and we pull one side to get it down once we are on the ground or next anchor station and “off rappel”, meaning on the ground or attached (“tethered”) to our next anchor. Rappelling is similar to lowering, but it has some nuances that are important to know and practice before using it in a live situation. Here are a few key points to hit each time you rappel.
Extended rappel and friction hitch backup. Photo: Karsten Delap.
1. Close the System
To “close” the system, knots must be tied in each free strand of rope so that a rappeler cannot rappel off either end of the rope. If either strand passes through the rappel device, the rappel is compromised. Before tossing the ropes down the cliff to rappel, tie a double overhand, or a “stopper” knot, in each strand with at least 12 inches of tail.
Kevin rappelling with a stopper knot at each rope end.
2. Backup the rappel
Without a proper backup, if the rappeler loses control of the break strands, they compromise the rappel. These situations could include being hit by rockfall, getting stung by insects, passing out or having a medical emergency, forgetting there is no backup and letting go of the break strands, or a number of other unforeseen circumstances. For these reasons, best practice is to use a friction hitch backup, or “third hand,” to provide an added degree of safety for the rappeler. The friction hitch slides freely and grips the rope when not being tended by the rappeler, so it protects the climber in the event they let go of the break strands. Friction hitches are created using “prusiks,” which are typically made from accessory cord. PCS guides prefer 5mm cord cut to 3 feet 7 inches and tied with a double fisherman's knot!
Sam rappelling The Legacy with a friction hitch backup.
3. Middle-mark the rope
Many modern ropes come with a “middle-mark,” usually one or two black stripes in the middle of the rope to signify its location. This mark is useful for rappelling because it ensures there is an equal amount of rope in each strand. The rappeler will not be able to get down unless both strands reach the ground or next anchor station, which may not happen if the strands are unequal. Best practice is to find the middle mark while setting up a rappel and ensure it is directly at the anchor before starting to rappel. Even with the middle mark in the proper location, it is still possible to come up short of the ground or next anchors if the rope is too short, which illustrates the importance of closing the system with stopper knots so that you can’t fall the remaining distance.
Bluewater Icon 9.1mm rope, threaded through the anchor at the middle mark. Photo: Karsten Delap
Many middle marks on ropes significantly fade with age and usage. I suggest purchasing a bi-pattern rope, like the Icon 9.1 from Bluewater. Bi-pattern ropes greatly facilitate finding the middle of the rope quickly and accurately. It is much easier to see rather than a simple black mark, especially while quickly feeding rope through an anchor.
As mentioned, rappelling is one of the more dangerous aspects of climbing because it requires fully relying on your system. Seek professional instruction to learn the ins and outs of descending from height, and refer back to this article for a refresher. See you out there!