The Blue Ridge Rampage
I worried I wouldn’t stick the move. I chalked up once, twice… seven times. I’d climbed through this water groove half a dozen times before, but today didn’t feel great, as I was sweating hard from running and climbing more than twenty pitches that day. By now, the temperature was over 70 degrees, and the holds and my hands felt slippery –probably too slippery for the next few moves…
I worried I wouldn’t stick the move. I chalked up once, twice… seven times. I’d climbed through this water groove half a dozen times before, but today didn’t feel great, as I was sweating hard from running and climbing more than twenty pitches that day. By now, the temperature was over 70 degrees, and the holds and my hands felt slippery –probably too slippery for the next few moves…
Packing before the big day!
Preface
The Blue Ridge Rampage is a link-up climb of the four tallest walls in Western North Carolina. It consists of Looking Glass Rock in Brevard and three walls in Cashiers, two of which are Whiteside Mountain and Laurel Knob.
After climbing at these four locations many times this summer, I wondered if it would be possible to link them all in a day. My original goal was to climb all four walls free from first to last light. Doing so in that timeframe seemed like a good challenge, as I wasn’t super keen on climbing any of the routes in the dark since they all feature relatively difficult climbing.
After shopping around for partners, I recruited Kevin Carey. Kevin is a career military vet who has served all over the world. He’s known for his tenacity and commitment. Kevin’s moving to town next year, and he and I had climbed a handful of big routes this summer together, including two of the routes featured on this project.
I had been training almost every day this year, mostly for AMGA courses and exams. After climbing in Red Rocks on three trips and also in Squamish, I wanted to see how far I could go and still climb at a high level. I planned to lead all 32 pitches. I wasn’t sure if this link-up had ever been done given the lack of available information, so I didn’t know how long it would take. As a last-second decision over burritos from Ecusta Brewing, Kevin and I decided we needed more time, so we planned to climb T & B in the dark by headlamp.
The Day: October 24th, 2022
We set out at 5am, arriving at the base of T & B, an 8 pitch 5.10a trad route, in 13 minutes. I racked up and tiptoed across the P1 traverse. It felt a little different in the dark!
Zack on P1 stepping into the dark void below the Sun Wall bulges.
We swam up the incredible hand crack below the crux, where I threw my heel up and went for the move, and sent! I was stoked because I’d always found this crux move particularly tricky to get right!
Reaching the crux of “T & B,” the Michelin Man bulge!
We simul-climbed from the top of the water groove pitch to the tourist trail on the summit. We topped out Looking Glass from the base in 1h 34m, ran to the nose rappels, and were back on the road just before 8am.
Sunrise from the top of Looking Glass. Who’s got it better?
At Whiteside Mountain, we left the car a bit after 9am, running up and over the mountain to gain the base of the Original Route, a ten-pitch 5.11a trad route. I set off on the scary P1 slab, placing the one available piece of gear about halfway to the anchor. Got to see it through!
Zack slabbing up P1, a full-value, mostly free solo to start the route!
At the top, I slung a tree, brought up Kevin, and was off on the first of the route’s signature traverses, where you cut way left before turning back up the face!
Zack on the P2 start, a wild traverse across a ledge before some exposed flake moves!
We continued onwards, pulling through both cruxes and topping out to a crowd of hikers. I wrapped the fence and brought Kevin up, and we hit the top from the base at 2h 22m.
Zack belaying Kevin up the last pitch of the OR!
Kevin and Zack just after topping out on the hiker trail!
We ran down the mountain, arriving back at the car in 2h 45m. Halfway done, the fatigue started to creep in, but we were stoked!
Next, we drove through Cashiers to climb a lesser-known, Grade III 5.11c route near Highlands. After lots of chalk and time staring at the holds, I pulled through the water groove crux, Kevin followed, and we made our way to the top. We left the car just after 1pm and topped out right before 3pm. Seven rappels later, we grabbed our stuff and dashed to the car.
An anchor midway up the third wall when Zack forgot to grab a sling. Light and fast!
Reaching leg four of the day, we pulled into Lonesome Valley and met Jonathan Hyde, who cooks for the restaurant Canyon Kitchen. From here we all drove over to the base of Laurel Knob and started climbing at 4:50pm.
Zack adjusting the ropes halfway up Laurel. Green machine!
The crux Pitch 6 water groove on Seconds. Super cool climbing!
Kevin, Jonathan and I topped out Seconds at 7:30pm just after sunset. What a day!
Sunset over Cashiers, taken from Seconds.
Kevin and Zack on top of Laurel Knob, stoked!
After enjoying the summit, we rapped down and hoofed it back to the car, arriving at 8:56pm, roughly 15.5 hours after leaving the Nose area at 5:27am.
The trio celebrates over some bubbly in downtown Cashiers! L: Zack Mintz, Middle: Jonathan Hyde, R: Kevin Carey.
After Action Report
I led and sent all 32 pitches free. I almost blew it on the 10c OR lieback crux at Whiteside but managed to eke it out to the jug!
Kevin followed every pitch cleanly. He sent 31/32 pitches, including a proud top rope onsight of the OR’s 5.11 crux. He slipped just once through the day on Pitch 29, a techy foot traverse move on pitch 2 of Seconds. His effort in supporting our team through managing logistics and pushing the pace was huge.
We are stoked to have completed this climb and feel indebted to each route’s first ascensionists for their vision and efforts in equipping the lines. We would also like to thank Karsten Delap and Anna Marie Alewine of Pisgah Climbing School for their continued mentorship in efficient rock climbing, as completing this project would not have been otherwise possible.
We hope more climbers will try this link-up, as it made for one of the best climbing days we’ve ever had in Pisgah. Climbers interested in repeating the link-up or seeking more information about the line can get in touch with me at zack@pisgahclimbingschool.com
Time Log
Time check atop T & B, from the car.
Routes
T & B (5.10a, Grade III) base to top: 1h 34m. Car to car: 2h 29m
The Original Route (5.11a, R, Grade III) base to top: 2h 22m. Car to car: 2h 45m
BR (5.11c, PG-13, Grade III) base to top: 1h 10m. Car to car: 2h 56m
Seconds (5.9+, Grade III) base to top: 2h 39m. Car to car: 4h 16m
Statistics:
Climbing
Grade V, 32 Pitches, 3600,’ 5.11c
Driving
2 hours
Running
Approximately 8 miles
T & B: 1.6 miles
Original Route: 2.5 miles
BR: 3 miles
Seconds: .6 miles
Chronology:
Looking Glass Rock, T & B
5:00am: Left house
5:23am arrived at The Nose parking lot
5:27am: Stepped off on the approach
5:50am: Arrived at the base
7:24am: Topped out
7:56am: Returned to car
Whiteside Mountain, Original Route
9:11am: arrived at Whiteside parking lot
9:18am: Stepped off on the approach
9:46am: Arrived at the base
9:54am: Began climbing
12:16pm: Topped out
12:31pm: Returned to the car
BR
1:00pm: Arrived at parking area
1:42pm: Arrived at the base
1:48pm: Began climbing
2:58pm: Topped out
4:01pm: Returned to the car
Laurel Knob, Seconds
4:40pm: Arrived at parking area
4:51pm: Began approach
7:30pm: Topped out
8:56pm: Returned to car