Gear Guide: Ropes
PCS guides swear by Bluewater Ropes. I’ve now climbed exclusively on them for 1.5 years and am extremely happy with their performance. Whether I’m guiding, training, or personal climbing, I grab a Bluewater rope to get the job done. Here are my top four Bluewater ropes for climbing!
Lead Guide Anna Marie belaying with the 9.1mm Icon.
Photo: Karsten Delap
The 9.1 Icon is my go-to rope for multipitch climbing. At 55 grams per meter, it is extremely durable for its thickness. It wears quite well and feeds smoothly far into its lifespan. This rope is a worthy companion when weight and speed matter.
James leading in Cashiers on the Bluewater 9.1mm Icon.
The 9.7 Lightning Pro is my workhorse single pitch rope. It is the thickest rope I use and makes for a great sport or hard trad climbing rope where falling is frequent. This rope is a great pick for toprope climbing because toproping significantly wears down ropes, so a thicker one will last longer. At 61 g/m, this rope is manageable to hike to the crag. The Lightning Pro is confidence inspiring to tie into when pushing grades or working routes.
Hillary rappelling on the 9.7 Lightning Pro!
I primarily bring the 9.2 Xenon for multipitch climbing. At 56 g/m, it’s not much heavier than the Icon but offers increased durability. This extra diameter means the rope will last a bit longer, especially if used for any toprope climbing. It is supple and provides versatility for different types of climbing.
Louis and Suze on the 9.2 Xenon atop pitch one of The Nose, Looking Glass Rock.
I grab the 8.8mm Argon for big days when every ounce counts. At 52 g/m, the Argon is the lightest and thinnest rope Bluewater sells, and it comes with an “expert’s only” notice for good reason. Its reduced diameter translates to less cut resistance, so users must avoid raking the rope over edges. It is very supple and feeds quite easily.
Beginning the pitch four traverse with the 8.8mm Argon on Save The Shrimp, Whiteside Mountain.
Photo: Anna Marie Alewine
Lengths and Rope Types
I typically purchase double-dry, bi-pattern, 70 meter ropes. Each of these options increases the overall rope price, but you get what you pay for. Here’s why:
Dry Treatment
Dry-treated ropes include a special coating that protects the rope from moisture. These ropes fare better in wetter environments, such as while alpine or ice climbing. I find dry-treated ropes work well in Pisgah because it rains so often. I buy dry to ensure my ropes last as long as possible.
Rappelling at Rumbling Bald on my dry-treated 9.1mm Icon.
Photo: Courtenay Roche
Bi-pattern
Bi-pattern ropes change color and/or pattern at the halfway point, or “middle-mark.” The different colors help immensely in finding the middle mark, which is necessary to set up a rappel or toprope.
Rejus rappelling on a bi-pattern 9.2 Xenon at Big Rock, SC.
70 Meter
70 meter ropes are about 230 feet long. They allow climbers to lower or rappel from routes up to about 115 feet (plus a bit with rope stretch). This extra length compared to a 60 meter rope (roughly 200 feet long) can be the difference in getting down to safety, especially on longer rappels, impromptu lowers, or rescues. In practice, it takes about five extra seconds to pull a 70m rope vs. a 60m rope up to or down from an anchor, so the extra time is negligible.
Avah rappelling the South Side of Looking Glass on a 70 meter 9.1mm Icon.