Zack Mintz 3/20/23 Zack Mintz 3/20/23

Gear Guide: Ropes

PCS guides swear by Bluewater Ropes. I’ve now climbed exclusively on them for 1.5 years and am extremely happy with their performance. Whether I’m guiding, training, or personal climbing, I grab a Bluewater rope to get the job done. Here are my top four Bluewater ropes for climbing!

9.1mm Icon

The 9.1 Icon is my go-to rope for multipitch climbing. At 55 grams per meter, it is extremely durable for its thickness. It wears quite well and feeds smoothly far into its lifespan. This rope is a worthy companion when weight and speed matter.

9.7mm Lightning Pro

The 9.7 Lightning Pro is my workhorse single pitch rope. It is the thickest rope I use and makes for a great sport or hard trad climbing rope where falling is frequent. This rope is a great pick for toprope climbing because toproping significantly wears down ropes, so a thicker one will last longer. At 61 g/m, this rope is manageable to hike to the crag. The Lightning Pro is confidence inspiring to tie into when pushing grades or working routes.

*Hillary rappelling on the 9.7 Lightning Pro!*

9.2mm Xenon

I primarily bring the 9.2 Xenon for multipitch climbing. At 56 g/m, it’s not much heavier than the Icon but offers increased durability. This extra diameter means the rope will last a bit longer, especially if used for any toprope climbing. It is supple and provides versatility for different types of climbing.

*Louis and Suze on the 9.2 Xenon atop pitch one of The Nose, Looking Glass Rock.*

8.8mm Argon

I grab the 8.8mm Argon for big days when every ounce counts. At 52 g/m, the Argon is the lightest and thinnest rope Bluewater sells, and it comes with an “expert’s only” notice for good reason. Its reduced diameter translates to less cut resistance, so users must avoid raking the rope over edges. It is very supple and feeds quite easily.

Lengths and Rope Types

I typically purchase double-dry, bi-pattern, 70 meter ropes. Each of these options increases the overall rope price, but you get what you pay for. Here’s why:

Dry Treatment

Dry-treated ropes include a special coating that protects the rope from moisture. These ropes fare better in wetter environments, such as while alpine or ice climbing. I find dry-treated ropes work well in Pisgah because it rains so often. I buy dry to ensure my ropes last as long as possible.

*Rappelling at Rumbling Bald on my dry-treated 9.1mm Icon.*
*Photo: Courtenay Roche*

Bi-pattern

Bi-pattern ropes change color and/or pattern at the halfway point, or “middle-mark.” The different colors help immensely in finding the middle mark, which is necessary to set up a rappel or toprope.

70 Meter

70 meter ropes are about 230 feet long. They allow climbers to lower or rappel from routes up to about 115 feet (plus a bit with rope stretch). This extra length compared to a 60 meter rope (roughly 200 feet long) can be the difference in getting down to safety, especially on longer rappels, impromptu lowers, or rescues. In practice, it takes about five extra seconds to pull a 70m rope vs. a 60m rope up to or down from an anchor, so the extra time is negligible.

Zack Mintz 2/28/23 Zack Mintz 2/28/23

Red Rock Canyon: Top 10 Items to Bring Rock Climbing

Red Rock Canyon is a world-class climbing destination just outside of Las Vegas, Nevada. It features long routes, grippy sandstone, and big exposure in a remote, beautiful setting. Though the climbing is fantastic, its desert terrain is demanding and requires preparation. Below you can find ten items that I bring to climb in the national park. Whether they’re to help you beat the heat, stay on route, or be prepared for an emergency, these tools will help ensure your success out in the canyons.

*Pine Creek Canyon at first light, the start to many great days in the canyons!*

Sun Hoodie

The desert sun can be brutal, especially on longer approaches into the canyons. It may seem counterintuitive to want a hood and long sleeves, but these features work wonders to keep you cool. Their lightweight fabric provides a nice reprieve from the beating sun. On shadier routes, I’ll often wear a sun hoodie on the approach, leave it at the base of the climb on a tree to dry, then put it back on to walk out of the canyon. I really like the Rab Force Hoodie because it’s lightweight, dries quickly, and protects well from the sun.

Hard-Plastic Water Bottles

Staying hydrated in the desert is key, especially if you’re from a wetter area like Western North Carolina. The arid climate saps the moisture from your body, even in the shade. Drinking water throughout the day is essential, especially if you are climbing multiple days in a row. While soft rubber flasks like Camelbacks and Hydrapacks are great, they are easily puncturable by the plethora of cacti and other pokey things in the desert. Many climbers have lost their entire water supply for the day this way, so hard bottles like Nalgenes fare much better in Red Rocks.

*AMGA Assistant Rock Guide Chase Colley’s improvised hard plastic water bottle, a must-have in the harsh desert!*

WAG Bags

Much of Red Rock Canyon is composed of a fragile ecosystem. Cryptobiotic soil is especially susceptible to human traffic and can be damaged by even the lightest of treading off trail. Wandering off trail and digging a big hole for human waste is out of the question because the desert environment simply can’t recover from that level of destruction. Instead, climbers and all park visitors are heavily encouraged to carry WAG bags, which are portable, packable human waste receptacles. They provide a lightweight, leave-no-trace option for bathroom usage in the field and are reasonable to pack out, especially when combined with a ziplock bag.

*WAG Bag dispenser in Black Velvet Canyon, a very popular multipitch climbing destination within the park. Photo: S. Massey*

Garmin In-Reach/SAT Device

Since lots of climbs are far into the canyons, they are often out of cell range. Many of these adventure trad climbs have intricate descents with tricky route-finding. Since climbers cannot count on cell coverage, they can greatly benefit from carrying a second communication device that uses satellite technology. These devices can connect and relay messages where cell phones fall short, and they prove invaluable every year in coordinating rescues when accidents happen. My favorite device is the Garmin In-Reach Mini. I appreciate its lightweight design, simple interface, and ability to send and receive messages. You can also pair it to your phone and send longer messages through the device, even if you don’t have cell service!

*Garmin InReach Mini, an essential emergency communication device for every adventure.*

Passive Protection — Nuts

Nuts are not found on many climbers’ racks these days, though they are invaluable in Red Rocks. Many classic climbs here are highly featured, and nuts fit perfectly between their flaring cracks and plated jugs. A set of nuts essentially doubles your protection options, so you can sew up pitches with protection and still have options for building an anchor. Offset nuts work particularly well in the little flares and constrictions here, and I’m fond of the Wild Country Superlight Rock Set (sizes 1-6). These nuts are tapered like offsets and work well in smaller flares. WC just issued a voluntary recall on any sets made before 2023 for maritime degradation issues, so they may be slightly harder to find in early 2023. On longer climbs, I often bring a second set of bigger nuts (Wild Country Superlight Offset Rock Set, sizes 5-10.)

*Climbing Invisible Airwaves with a set of Wild Country Superlight Offset Nuts. Photo: Karsten Delap*

Electrolytes

In addition to staying hydrated, climbers in Red Rocks need to consistently replenish their salt levels. Adding a supplement to your water bottles helps do so. I have had good experiences with Skratch, which is basically tasteless and packs plenty of salt. On most long days in the park, I’ll drink 2-3 liters of Skratch and eat a few packs of Extreme Jelly Belly Sport Beans. These beans deliver sugar, caffeine, and electrolytes, and I love that they’re light and easy to eat quickly.

*Skratch labs Lemon Lime Drink Mix, a perfect way to stay healthy in the desert! Photo: SkratchLabs.com*

*Jelly Belly Extreme Sport Beans in their best flavor –watermelon! Photo: JellyBelly.com*

Route and Area Photos

Red Rocks is a maze of twisting trails and canyons, and many of the formations and areas look similar. To prepare for each day, I take pictures of the Red Rocks Guidebook and screenshot Mountain Project and internet photos, including approach and descent options. These photos serve as a digital guidebook in the field that makes a great reference. I’ll often change my phone’s lock screen to a topographic map or picture of the route so I can quickly glance at my phone to see where to go. Photos taken from the ground are also particularly useful to identify where routes begin. Many classic climbs have GPS tracks that can be downloaded online, and this resource helps immensely in navigating complicated approaches and descents.

*A topo for a crag in Calico Basin, illustrating five different climbing routes. Photo: Red Rocks Guide Book*

*An online photo taken from the base of the same crag, submitted by a user on Mountain Project. Photo: Repka*

60 Meter Rope

A 60 meter rope is often the best rope choice for multipitch routes in Red Rocks. With this length, you can climb up to 200 foot pitches and make 100 foot rappels. Although 70 meter ropes facilitate slightly longer pitches and rappels, they are heavier and take longer to pull during transitions. Many descents in Red Rocks are walk-offs or only feature short rappels, so a 60 meter rope is sufficient for the down and efficient on the up. My personal favorite rope for Red Rocks is the Bluewater 9.1mm Icon 60 meter rope. It is light and wears well in the desert environment.

*Belaying the second on Community Pillar with a 60m Bluewater Icon 9.1mm (pink). Photo: Farmer*

First Aid Kit

A small first aid kit is a prudent choice to bring into Red Rocks for emergency preparation. Many routes are long and take about an hour to reach by foot, so any rescue operation apart from a helicopter will take some time. Having medical materials can make the difference in conducting a self-rescue and escaping a major injury. I bring the Adventure Medical Kit Ultralight/Watertight .7 Medical Kit, supplemented by other key items like a tourniquet and headlamp. It’s light and small enough to climb with and features a good array of supplies and drugs for response.

*Ultralight/Watertight Medical Kit .7, encased in a plastic bag with a tourniquet for increased water resistance.*

Portable Cell Phone Charger

A functional cell phone on a climb is key for route information, emergency communication, and of course, photos! Modern cell batteries last pretty long but can still die towards the end of the day, especially in colder weather that drains them faster. A small, portable charger offers another 1-2 charges. This extra juice can be invaluable on a long descent, extended rescue situation, or to not miss capturing the photo of the day! I especially like the Goal Zero line and find the Flip 24 to be a great balance between weight and charging power.

*The Goal Zero Flip 24, perfect for keeping your phone powered up throughout the day!*

Zack Mintz 2/24/23 Zack Mintz 2/24/23

Rappelling

At some point in your climbing adventures, you will need to rappel. This moment could come at the top of a long climb or an approach to a climb. Rappelling is similar to lowering but has some nuances that are important to know and practice before using in a live situation. Here are a few key points to hit each time you rappel.

Peer Review by Karsten Delap and Anna Marie Alewine

*Michael rappelling on a sunny day at Big Rock, SC!*

At some point in your climbing adventures, you will need to rappel. This moment could come at the top of a long climb or an approach to a climb (many crags require climbers to rappel in and climb out, or when there is no “walk-off,” meaning a trail to get down). Rappelling is one of the more dangerous activities within climbing. When we climb up, we use the rope as a back-up in case we fall. Our primary protection is our climbing movement. When we rappel, we lose this protection and lean entirely on the system to support our weight and, in turn, our safety. We thread the rope through the anchor until each side is equal in length, then we descend by weighting both strands at once. The rope remains stationary at the anchor, and we pull one side to get it down once we are on the ground or next anchor station and “off rappel”, meaning on the ground or attached (“tethered”) to our next anchor. Rappelling is similar to lowering, but it has some nuances that are important to know and practice before using it in a live situation. Here are a few key points to hit each time you rappel.

*Extended rappel and friction hitch backup. Photo:* *Karsten Delap.*

1. Close the System

To “close” the system, knots must be tied in each free strand of rope so that a rappeler cannot rappel off either end of the rope. If either strand passes through the rappel device, the rappel is compromised. Before tossing the ropes down the cliff to rappel, tie a double overhand, or a “stopper” knot, in each strand with at least 12 inches of tail.

*Kevin rappelling with a stopper knot at each rope end.*

2. Backup the rappel

Without a proper backup, if the rappeler loses control of the break strands, they compromise the rappel. These situations could include being hit by rockfall, getting stung by insects, passing out or having a medical emergency, forgetting there is no backup and letting go of the break strands, or a number of other unforeseen circumstances. For these reasons, best practice is to use a friction hitch backup, or “third hand,” to provide an added degree of safety for the rappeler. The friction hitch slides freely and grips the rope when not being tended by the rappeler, so it protects the climber in the event they let go of the break strands. Friction hitches are created using “prusiks,” which are typically made from accessory cord. PCS guides prefer 5mm cord cut to 3 feet 7 inches and tied with a double fisherman's knot!

Sam rappelling The Legacy with a friction hitch backup.

3. Middle-mark the rope

Many modern ropes come with a “middle-mark,” usually one or two black stripes in the middle of the rope to signify its location. This mark is useful for rappelling because it ensures there is an equal amount of rope in each strand. The rappeler will not be able to get down unless both strands reach the ground or next anchor station, which may not happen if the strands are unequal. Best practice is to find the middle mark while setting up a rappel and ensure it is directly at the anchor before starting to rappel. Even with the middle mark in the proper location, it is still possible to come up short of the ground or next anchors if the rope is too short, which illustrates the importance of closing the system with stopper knots so that you can’t fall the remaining distance.

*Bluewater Icon 9.1mm rope, threaded through the anchor at the middle mark. Photo:* *Karsten Delap*

Many middle marks on ropes significantly fade with age and usage. I suggest purchasing a bi-pattern rope, like the Icon 9.1 from Bluewater. Bi-pattern ropes greatly facilitate finding the middle of the rope quickly and accurately. It is much easier to see rather than a simple black mark, especially while quickly feeding rope through an anchor.

As mentioned, rappelling is one of the more dangerous aspects of climbing because it requires fully relying on your system. Seek professional instruction to learn the ins and outs of descending from height, and refer back to this article for a refresher. See you out there!

Zack Mintz 2/24/23 Zack Mintz 2/24/23

My Top 3 Climbing Backpacks

Choosing the right backpack can make a big difference in your climbing day. I prefer the Deuter line for my adventures in the mountains. These are my top three packs for single and multipitch climbing.

*Starting up Lotta Balls with a Deuter Guide Lite 30+ in Red Rock Canyon last winter.*
*Photo:* *Karsten Delap.*

Deuter Guide Lite 30+

My go-to pack is the Deuter Guide Lite 30+, pictured above. Its light weight combined with its large storage space makes it the perfect bag for any type of climbing. You can load it up for a full day of cragging or just bring along a few items on a multipitch route. The top compartment and waist belt are easily removable to strip down additional weight and size. The pack has padded shoulder straps that snug down comfortably. Its thin profile keeps it on your back and off your sides. This narrow style is a mainstay of many packs in the Deuter climbing line and makes climbing movement feel unrestricted.

*Placing gear on Lotta Balls wearing the Deuter Guide Lite 30+*
*Photo:* *Karsten Delap*

2. Deuter Guide Lite 24

The Deuter Guide Lite 24 is a smaller version of the 30+ that keeps many of key components. It features a similar thin frame and padded shoulder straps. The upper compartment is replaced by a tuckable flap to store a helmet or other gear above the main cavity. This pack’s low weight and compact size makes it a worthy companion on long multipitch routes, where bringing essentials and additional gear is a must. I reach for the 24 when I travel to climb big routes where I’ll be wearing a pack all day and need space for food, water, jackets, and approach shoes.

*Leading Angel’s Crest in Squamish, BC this summer with a Guide Lite 24. This climb is a must-do for the grade!*
*Photo: Brian Shannon.*

3. Deuter Speedlite 13

The Deuter Speedlite 13 is a hiking backpack that functions well as a summit pack. I’ll often roll it up and stuff it into a bigger pack (the 24 or the 30) and wear it on route. Its diminutive size and weight keep you moving fast while giving you space to bring along a few small items, such as a first aid kit, snacks, water, and a jacket. I pack the 13 when I’m just climbing a few pitches and will return to my larger bag at the base, or when I need to go super-light to complete a big route in a day.