Rope Inspection and Longevity

Peer Review by Karsten Delap and Anna Marie Alewine

Anna Marie inspects a rope before getting ready to climb. Photo: Karsten Delap

Your rope is essentially your best friend as a climber. It’s your main and often only connection to the mountain, and your life literally hangs on it. As a result, it almost goes without saying that ropes must be kept in tip-top condition. Here are some great ways to assess your rope’s condition to make sure you’re looking after your lifeline.

Ropes on ropes! Photo: Karsten Delap

Inspect your rope often. It can only take one fall on a damaged rope to spell catastrophe. Luckily, there are many situations that naturally facilitate climbers to assess their rope’s condition. Each time a belayer flakes a rope for an upcoming lead, they pass it through their hands. Not only does doing so prevent knots from being left in the lead line (which can compromise a safe belay), it also presents an opportunity to feel the outside of the rope, called the sheath, for any abrasions or abnormalities. 

While feeling the sheath, this person can also stop to feel the inner portion of the rope, known as the core, in any section where the sheath is damaged. Core damage can result from taking a huge lead fall, excessive use, or falling on the same spot in the rope many times. When the core is damaged, it flattens and thus loses its ability to return the rope to its normal shape after being stretched. The rope’s dynamic capability keeps climbers safe and is why dynamic lines are now ubiquitous in recreational climbing. Without rope stretch, peak impact force would be astronomical and many, if not all falls would be back-breaking, and ropes could actually break (which used to happen before kernmantle ropes were invented in the 20th century!). 

Core damage can be difficult to accurately determine, so climbers rely on a few tricks to assess it. A common way to determine whether a rope has been damaged is by finding a place where it feels soft, as in easier to squeeze. At this spot, make a small bite with this portion of rope forming the curve in the bite. Pinch the sides of the bite together, and peer through it. If there is air between the two strands that form the bite, the core is not damaged. If the sides can touch, the core is damaged. Note that this damage can result from regular wear and tear; for instance, older or heavily used ropes may not pass this test at the end of their usability). Any rope that fails this pinch test cannot safely protect a climber and must be retired. 

Possible Core Damage. Photo: Karsten Delap

At its worst, rope damage can cause a “core shot” when the sheath has been completely torn and core strands are visible. This rope is no longer safe to use and must be immediately retired. On the bright side, it’s relatively easy to tell that the rope has been seriously damaged. This portion of the rope must be isolated (or cut off, if it’s near an end) if the rope must continue to be used, such as to retreat.

Unlikely to have core damage. Photo: Karsten Delap

Ropes should be inspected before and after each use. As the rope is coiled, it passes through the person’s hands and can be assessed. In a multi-pitch setting, the belayer can check the rope as they pull it up to put their follower (or “second”) on belay. With proper care and frequent inspection, climbers can ensure that their rope is in working condition every time someone leaves the ground or anchor. 

“Core Shot” or sheath damage. Photo: Karsten Delap

As a general rule, retiring ropes for most climbers will happen before 5 years of use and many times much earlier. If you are ever unsure of your rope’s integrity, ask a professional or better yet, just get a new one!