Red Rock Canyon: Top 10 Items to Bring Rock Climbing

Red Rock Canyon is a world-class climbing destination just outside of Las Vegas, Nevada. It features long routes, grippy sandstone, and big exposure in a remote, beautiful setting. Though the climbing is fantastic, its desert terrain is demanding and requires preparation. Below you can find ten items that I bring to climb in the national park. Whether they’re to help you beat the heat, stay on route, or be prepared for an emergency, these tools will help ensure your success out in the canyons.

Pine Creek Canyon at first light, the start to many great days in the canyons!

Sun Hoodie

The desert sun can be brutal, especially on longer approaches into the canyons. It may seem counterintuitive to want a hood and long sleeves, but these features work wonders to keep you cool. Their lightweight fabric provides a nice reprieve from the beating sun. On shadier routes, I’ll often wear a sun hoodie on the approach, leave it at the base of the climb on a tree to dry, then put it back on to walk out of the canyon. I really like the Rab Force Hoodie because it’s lightweight, dries quickly, and protects well from the sun.

IFMGA Guide Joe Thompson rocking a Rab Sun Hoodie on a winter AMGA Rock Guide Course.

Hard-Plastic Water Bottles

Staying hydrated in the desert is key, especially if you’re from a wetter area like Western North Carolina. The arid climate saps the moisture from your body, even in the shade. Drinking water throughout the day is essential, especially if you are climbing multiple days in a row. While soft rubber flasks like Camelbacks and Hydrapacks are great, they are easily puncturable by the plethora of cacti and other pokey things in the desert. Many climbers have lost their entire water supply for the day this way, so hard bottles like Nalgenes fare much better in Red Rocks.

AMGA Assistant Rock Guide Chase Colley’s improvised hard plastic water bottle, a must-have in the harsh desert!

WAG Bags

Much of Red Rock Canyon is composed of a fragile ecosystem. Cryptobiotic soil is especially susceptible to human traffic and can be damaged by even the lightest of treading off trail. Wandering off trail and digging a big hole for human waste is out of the question because the desert environment simply can’t recover from that level of destruction. Instead, climbers and all park visitors are heavily encouraged to carry WAG bags, which are portable, packable human waste receptacles. They provide a lightweight, leave-no-trace option for bathroom usage in the field and are reasonable to pack out, especially when combined with a ziplock bag.

WAG Bag dispenser in Black Velvet Canyon, a very popular multipitch climbing destination within the park. Photo: S. Massey

Garmin In-Reach/SAT Device

Since lots of climbs are far into the canyons, they are often out of cell range. Many of these adventure trad climbs have intricate descents with tricky route-finding. Since climbers cannot count on cell coverage, they can greatly benefit from carrying a second communication device that uses satellite technology. These devices can connect and relay messages where cell phones fall short, and they prove invaluable every year in coordinating rescues when accidents happen. My favorite device is the Garmin In-Reach Mini. I appreciate its lightweight design, simple interface, and ability to send and receive messages. You can also pair it to your phone and send longer messages through the device, even if you don’t have cell service!

Garmin InReach Mini, an essential emergency communication device for every adventure.

Passive Protection — Nuts

Nuts are not found on many climbers’ racks these days, though they are invaluable in Red Rocks. Many classic climbs here are highly featured, and nuts fit perfectly between their flaring cracks and plated jugs. A set of nuts essentially doubles your protection options, so you can sew up pitches with protection and still have options for building an anchor. Offset nuts work particularly well in the little flares and constrictions here, and I’m fond of the Wild Country Superlight Rock Set (sizes 1-6). These nuts are tapered like offsets and work well in smaller flares. WC just issued a voluntary recall on any sets made before 2023 for maritime degradation issues, so they may be slightly harder to find in early 2023. On longer climbs, I often bring a second set of bigger nuts (Wild Country Superlight Offset Rock Set, sizes 5-10.)

Climbing Invisible Airwaves with a set of Wild Country Superlight Offset Nuts. Photo: Karsten Delap

Electrolytes 

In addition to staying hydrated, climbers in Red Rocks need to consistently replenish their salt levels. Adding a supplement to your water bottles helps do so. I have had good experiences with Skratch, which is basically tasteless and packs plenty of salt. On most long days in the park, I’ll drink 2-3 liters of Skratch and eat a few packs of Extreme Jelly Belly Sport Beans. These beans deliver sugar, caffeine, and electrolytes, and I love that they’re light and easy to eat quickly.

Skratch labs Lemon Lime Drink Mix, a perfect way to stay healthy in the desert!  Photo: SkratchLabs.com

Jelly Belly Extreme Sport Beans in their best flavor –watermelon! Photo: JellyBelly.com

Route and Area Photos 

Red Rocks is a maze of twisting trails and canyons, and many of the formations and areas look similar. To prepare for each day, I take pictures of the Red Rocks Guidebook and screenshot Mountain Project and internet photos, including approach and descent options. These photos serve as a digital guidebook in the field that makes a great reference. I’ll often change my phone’s lock screen to a topographic map or picture of the route so I can quickly glance at my phone to see where to go. Photos taken from the ground are also particularly useful to identify where routes begin. Many classic climbs have GPS tracks that can be downloaded online, and this resource helps immensely in navigating complicated approaches and descents.

 A topo for a crag in Calico Basin, illustrating five different climbing routes. Photo: Red Rocks Guide Book     

 An online photo taken from the base of the same crag, submitted by a user on Mountain Project. Photo: Repka

60 Meter Rope 

A 60 meter rope is often the best rope choice for multipitch routes in Red Rocks. With this length, you can climb up to 200 foot pitches and make 100 foot rappels. Although 70 meter ropes facilitate slightly longer pitches and rappels, they are heavier and take longer to pull during transitions. Many descents in Red Rocks are walk-offs or only feature short rappels, so a 60 meter rope is sufficient for the down and efficient on the up. My personal favorite rope for Red Rocks is the Bluewater 9.1mm Icon 60 meter rope. It is light and wears well in the desert environment.

   Belaying the second on Community Pillar with a 60m Bluewater Icon 9.1mm (pink). Photo: Farmer

First Aid Kit 

A small first aid kit is a prudent choice to bring into Red Rocks for emergency preparation. Many routes are long and take about an hour to reach by foot, so any rescue operation apart from a helicopter will take some time. Having medical materials can make the difference in conducting a self-rescue and escaping a major injury. I bring the Adventure Medical Kit Ultralight/Watertight .7 Medical Kit, supplemented by other key items like a tourniquet and headlamp. It’s light and small enough to climb with and features a good array of supplies and drugs for response.

Ultralight/Watertight Medical Kit .7, encased in a plastic bag with a tourniquet for increased water resistance.

Portable Cell Phone Charger 

A functional cell phone on a climb is key for route information, emergency communication, and of course, photos! Modern cell batteries last pretty long but can still die towards the end of the day, especially in colder weather that drains them faster. A small, portable charger offers another 1-2 charges. This extra juice can be invaluable on a long descent, extended rescue situation, or to not miss capturing the photo of the day! I especially like the Goal Zero line and find the Flip 24 to be a great balance between weight and charging power.

The Goal Zero Flip 24, perfect for keeping your phone powered up throughout the day!